Trip Report: Death Valley (Oct. 22 - 26, 2020)
This was my first time visiting Death Valley and I wasn’t quite sure what to expect. My friend Joe joined me in my 2008 4Runner (3 inch lift with 32” BFGs). We had a great time! This off-road trip was an incredible way to see the park; we were able to see quite a few different regions in this massive park.
I joined for the “Core Days” of the trip, but all of the other folks did the optional day (Pleasant Canyon Loop) before the Core Days, and the add-on day (Cerro Gordo). We met the group Thursday evening in the Ballarat ghost town. Very unique place with plenty of space to camp (and bathrooms).
Friday morning we headed out on Goler Canyon road. Visited some sites like Barker’s Ranch (where Charles Manson and gang were captured) and, later in the day, the Geologist’s Cabin (where we had lunch). Getting to the top of Mengel’s pass provided the first technical driving of the trip. Fun ascent and no problems. On the way down the other side, we got views (and eventually drove by) the beautiful Striped Butte. After lunch, we rejoined the pavement and proceeded north to Furnace Creek where we got gas and park passes. We then headed out to Echo Canyon as the sun was starting to set, and arrived at our campsite next to the Eye of the Needle. For me, this campsite was the best of the trip: we camped just north of the Needle with canyon walls rising around us, with plenty of space to spread out and relax.
Saturday morning we headed north, but were soon stopped as Scott radioed in that he had a flat. Unfortunately this was the beginning of the end of the trip for Scott and his wife Tuyet. He turned around and headed to town (Beatty) to try to find a new tire. We continued up Echo Pass and then onto Beatty, where we gassed up and met up with Scott and Tuyet. They were unable to find a new tire, so we unfortunately had to say goodbye and they headed home. We next headed west on Titus Canyon Road, which was one of the highlights of the trip for me. Stunning views of the Amargosa Range as you re-enter the park. Equally impressive views as we entered the canyon, with unique rock formations and the road twists, turns, and descends, eventually opening up into Death Valley. From there, a bit more pavement driving north to Mesquite Spring campground.
Sunday morning we took a short drive north to Ubehebe Crater, a massive volcanic crater 600 feet deep and half a mile across. We then headed south on Racetrack Road toward, of course, the Racetrack. It seems to have been fairly recently graded and the washboard wasn’t too bad. We stopped for a photo at Teakettle Junction (though we forgot to bring a teakettle to add to the collection). Soon we arrived at the Racetrack where we spent quite a bit of time exploring the Grandstand and the southern part of the Racetrack. If we had more time, I would have loved to have done the hike that Jeff pointed out where one can clearly see the tracks of the rocks from a height (especially at sunset). We next visited the Lippincott Mine, and then proceeded to Lippincott Mine Road. It wasn’t as hairy as I expected, though there were a few washouts. This drive was one of the highlights for me: coming up over the Last Change Range (I think that’s right), and then opening up into the Saline Valley. From there we drove across Saline Valley. (It was amazing how each of these different segments of the trip provided different looking surroundings, rock formations, and colors.) We drove west across the valley and eventually to an abandoned ranch near Snowflake Mine. We then drove east across the valley toward Saline Valley Warm Springs. Under normal circumstances, we would have been treated to naturally heated hot tubs, pools, and showers in this oasis in the desert. Unfortunately Covid had the pools closed. The weather was extremely windy (and a bit cold), but we all survived and no one lost a tent. Although it was disappointing the pools weren’t open, it gives us something to look forward to next time.
Monday morning we headed south, toward South Pass, which brought us up the Panamint Mountains and provided another incredible view: looking south across the beautiful Panamint Valley. Just before this, we parted ways with the group since we were on our way home, and they had the rest of the day to explore and go to Cerro Gordo.
It was an awesome adventure, with a great group of folks (all of whom I was meeting for the first time). Big thanks to Vidas and Bruce for all of their work planning and leading the trip. (And a hat tip to Connie who lent me a Rotopax for the trip.)
Best,
Patrick Mueller